best skin care products of 2005
Published on January 11, 2006
By
Tova7
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Misc
People who read me know I am interested in skin care. This interest led me to Paula Begoun known in the cosmetics and skin care industry as the "cosmetics cop." She evaluates all new products out today scientifically and gives you the real deal on them.
Below is a modified list of her best new skin care products for 2005...see if yours is here! I will do another blog about the best make up of 2005 soon!
I took out a few that were only sold in spas so it wouldn't be so long....but if you have any specific questions I have her book...if you want to know what an unbiased third party says scientifically about your make up or skin care...let me know and I'll look it up for you.
Best of Beauty 2005
A Special Report
By Paula Begoun
Before you read through the 2005 winners, please note this list is strictly about great formulations and, in the case of makeup products, impressive textures and application. An item’s inclusion on this list does NOT mean I found even a fraction of the companies’ claims about their products true or how the products were marketed the least bit valid.
Note: Fewer moisturizers appear on this year’s list because packaging became part of the criteria for inclusion. Antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, and anti-irritants decompose and deteriorate with exposure to air or light, so products containing these types of ingredients that came in jars or clear packaging could not be included in the “Best of the Best,” even if the formulation itself was outstanding.
One More Note: For more information about how I rate products please refer to the Learn section of my web site at www.CosmeticsCop.com.
The Best Skin-Care Products of 2005
Clinique
The lowdown: Clinique continues to produce some of the most exceptional moisturizers you’ll find at the department store, and you can add the products below to their list of impressive achievements. That unjustly famous yellow lotion (Dramatically Different Moisturizer—if there was ever an oxymoron in the cosmetics industry, this is it) is still around, and probably will be for decades to come, but it’s reassuring that more often than not, Clinique’s latest developments exceed my expectations.
Active White Lab Solutions Daily Moisturizer ($35 for 1.5 ounces) won’t fade sun-induced skin discolorations, although the mica it contains will help “brighten” skin. This powerhouse formula is an outstanding choice for normal to slightly oily or slightly dry skin, and contains mostly water, silicones, slip agent, water-binding agents, anti-irritant, antioxidants, plant extracts, film-forming agents, and preservatives. It is fragrance-free and does not contain any irritating ingredients.
Repairwear Deep Wrinkle Concentrate for Face and Eye ($52 for 1.4 ounces) is an anti-aging product many baby-boomer consumers will take seriously. However, despite somewhat misleading claims, this product is as state-of-the-art as it gets, with a remarkably elegant formula. Just as advanced as most of Clinique’s Repairwear products that aren’t packaged in jars, this serum includes effective and abundant antioxidants, water-binding agents, cell-communicating ingredients, potent anti-irritants, fatty acids, plant oil, and smoothing film-forming agents. It really is a brilliant formula that has the potential to significantly improve the health and appearance of skin. Will it vanquish wrinkles? No. But it will help skin to create an improved, smoothed appearance and some wrinkles will look less noticeable, but no plastic surgeons need worry about their job security. The serum texture makes this a suitable product for oily skin looking to benefit from topical antioxidants without making skin feel slick or too moist.
DDF
The lowdown: DDF (Doctor’s Dermatologic Formula) is a skin-care line from dermatologist Dr. Howard Sobel. The company offers several worthwhile serums and moisturizers, and their angle is definitely geared toward providing consumers with anti-aging skin care. His latest creation is the ultra-overpriced RMX line, which uses frozen growth factor proteins in an effort to “train” cells to look younger. Look for a review of those products (with one of the most expensive moisturizers ever launched) in an upcoming issue of my free online Beauty Bulletin.
C3 Plus Serum ($60 for 0.5 ounce) is an excellent product if you’re looking for a serum that combines the antioxidant benefits of vitamin C with the skin-enhancing benefits of peptides. Packaged in an airtight opaque bottle to keep the antioxidants stable, C3 Plus Serum also contains a nice complement of ingredients that mimic the structure of skin, making it worthwhile for someone with oily or blemish-prone skin who wants an antioxidant-rich product. Traditionally, ascorbic acid (the form of vitamin C in this product) has been considered difficult to stabilize. However, new, placebo-controlled research shows that a 3% concentration of ascorbic acid (which this product contains) in an emulsion can produce positive results in skin within a short period of time. This means that, although the ascorbic acid will break down faster than more stable forms of vitamin C, some immediate efficacy is obtained when the formulation is correct (Source: Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, July–August 2004, pages 200–206). Assuming that your skin-care routine includes an effective sunscreen—without this essential step, applying all the antioxidants in the world to your skin would be for naught—this is a good product to consider, especially if you’d like to see what the vitamin C and peptides combination can do for your skin.
Dove
The lowdown: Dove has made some wonderfully positive strides within the last two years, going from ordinary, extremely standard body-care products and bar cleansers to offering a fairly comprehensive, surprisingly advanced lineup of options. These products are big on antioxidants, which is great, but what’s less encouraging is their predominantly jar packaging. Such fortified products deserve opaque tubes and bottles so consumers can reap the most benefit from the inclusion of these air- and light-sensitive ingredients. The products below represent Dove’s excellent formulas, packaged sensibly.
Fresh Radiance Anti-Aging Moisturizer SPF 15 ($9.99 for 1.7 ounces) is a lightweight moisturizing lotion with an in-part zinc oxide sunscreen, providing necessary complete UVA protection. It is appropriate for those with normal to slightly dry or slightly oily skin; those prone to blemishes should consider this cautiously because zinc oxide has the potential to clog pores. The lotion base is an elegant combination of ingredients that mimic the structure of skin and antioxidants, making this another smart offering from Dove, and one that eclipses similar products from L’Oreal and, in many instances, Neutrogena. The opaque packaging helps keep the antioxidants stable.
Cool Moisture Lotion ($5.99 for 8.5 ounces) may make you think twice because the “cool” portion of a product name usually means it includes an ingredient that makes skin tingle with irritation from menthol or peppermint, assuredly a no-no for keeping skin healthy. But that’s not the case here, and this remains still another outstanding moisturizer from Dove. Considering the price per ounce, this is one of the best body-lotion bargains around, and is recommended for all but very dry skin (which would need a richer, more emollient product).
Intensive Firming Cream ($7.99 for 6.7 ounces) is similar to, but more emollient than, the Cool Moisture Lotion above. It is an excellent choice for dry to very dry skin from the neck down, and contains many state-of-the-art ingredients, including peptides, several antioxidants, anti-irritant plant extracts, and ingredients that mimic the structure of skin. What it cannot do is firm skin, even in a minor way. However, its elegant formula bests just about every department-store body lotion, and it will give dry skin what it needs to look and feel better. That alone makes Dove’s inflated skin-firming claims almost forgivable.
Intensive Firming Lotion ($5.99 for 6.7 ounces) is nearly identical to the Intensive Firming Cream above, and the same review applies. Why this product costs less is just marketing caprice, because the two formulas don’t reflect a difference. If anything, this version should be priced higher than the Cream version because it contains slightly more silicone, a rather expensive raw material.
Intensive Nourishing Lotion ($5.99 for 6.7 ounces) is, with a few minor differences, nearly identical to the Intensive Firming Lotion above, and the same review applies. Intensive Nourishing Lotion contains panthenol in place of the collagen in the Firming Lotion. Both are good ingredients that mimic the structure of skin, but topically applied collagen cannot add to the collagen within skin.
Estee Lauder
The lowdown: If this prodigious line would only rethink its reliance on jar packaging, their state-of-the-art formulas would almost be unparalleled in the industry. Yet, despite the fact that Estee Lauder repeatedly demonstrates their expertise at creating incredibly well-formulated moisturizers, treatment products, and serums, their packaging is too often substandard. Compared to competitors, such as Lancome, they are decades ahead. Lauder’s cleansers, makeup removers, and toners are decent, but if you’re going to invest money in their skin-care products, it’s the non-jar packaged moisturizers (with and without sunscreen) that deserve your attention.
Future Perfect Anti-Wrinkle Radiance Lotion SPF 15 for Normal/Combination Skin ($65 for 1.7 ounces) is a very good moisturizing lotion with an in-part avobenzone sunscreen for complete UVA protection. It is well-suited to the texture preferences of those with normal to oily skin. What is more cosmetics puffery than legitimately good news for skin is Lauder’s claim that this product is “futuristic” and that its Cell Vector technology helps re-ignite skin’s ability to fight the signs of aging. As I reported in the March–April 2005 issue of Cosmetics Counter Update, which reviewed the cream versions of this product, the technology is more a marketing concept than an intriguing formulary advantage. It turns out this product’s one-two punch of broad-spectrum sunscreen protection and a wide complement of antioxidants, anti-irritants, and ingredients that mimic the structure of skin is what’s really worth getting excited about. By the way, the radiance you’ll get from this product is from the subtle amount of shimmer it imparts, not from “Cell Vector” technology, a term Lauder’s marketing team coined. Among the three Future Perfect products, this version is the only one whose packaging will help keep its many antioxidants stable.
Idealist Refinishing Eye Serum ($48 for 0.5 ounce) is the complement to Lauder’s top-selling Idealist Skin Refinisher ($73 for 1.7 ounces). The Eye Serum is similar to the original Idealist product, but the formula is updated to capitalize on the latest skin-care ingredients. Included in this water- and silicone-based gel-cream are long-proven emollients (petrolatum), several antioxidants (the packaging will keep them stable), ingredients that mimic the structure of skin, and anti-irritants. It won’t minimize puffiness or significantly brighten the eye area, but it will protect skin and help it function more normally. This would be even better without the fragrance, but that’s a minor complaint for such a thoughtfully formulated product. By the way, this can be used anywhere on the face—there is nothing in this product that makes it unique for the eye area.
Laura Mercier
The lowdown: Until the product below was launched, Laura Mercier’s skin care wasn’t extraordinary or worth the extra expense. Her namesake line excels in the arena of makeup, but the serum below proves she is making good on her claim that makeup only looks as good as the skin it’s used on!
Multi-Vitamin Serum ($65 for two 0.6-ounce vials) is a two-part product consisting of water-based Phase 1 and silicone-based Phase 2. Both phases contain ingredients that will smooth and hydrate skin, and both contain several antioxidants, though Phase 2 has slightly more. From a formulary standpoint, there was no need for this product to be split into two phases. I suppose Mercier simply wanted her serum to seem different and more scientific, and so consumers are directed to mix several drops from both phases before applying it to the skin. If the mixing step doesn’t bother you, this is a very well-formulated, antioxidant-rich serum that is recommended for all but blemish-prone skin. Its packaging ensures the antioxidants will remain stable during use. The firming sensation you get from this product comes from the film-forming agent used in Phase 1, which can temporarily make skin feel tauter and look smoother. This product does not contain fragrance, but does contain a small amount of orange oil, which imparts a scent (and may cause irritation, the only misstep in an otherwise superb product). For a cosmetics line that is primarily about makeup, this is one of the more sophisticated antioxidant products around!
M.A.C.
The lowdown: M.A.C.’s skin care is at best described as ordinary, the emphasis and innovation for this line is clearly tied to its formidable makeup collection. The Prep + Prime range offers some respectable, albeit extraneous products, but the lip option below is especially noteworthy because it really works to solve a common, frustrating problem.
Prep + Prime Lip ($14 for 0.05 ounce) is a base that is applied before lipstick to facilitate application and prevent it from feathering into lines around the mouth. Guess what? It works! The silicone- and wax-based stick forms a great barrier to keep color in place, in a way similar to long-discontinued products such as The Body Shop’s No Wander and Coty’s Stop It! As good as this product is, keep in mind it won’t prevent greasy, slippery lip glosses from migrating into lines around the mouth. It works best with moderately creamy or satin matte lipstick formulas, of which M.A.C. has plenty!
Neutrogena
The lowdown: Neutrogena continues to launch new products at a rapid-fire pace, but, regrettably, many of their latest options suffer due to jar packaging or too many irritating ingredients (the company still loves to use menthol and its derivatives in many of their anti-acne/clear skin products despite the fact this ingredient is ineffective and problematic for that condition). Their Advanced Solutions line, for all its dermatologist posturing, isn’t nearly as advanced as competing products such as Olay Regenerist, Clinique Repairwear, or the “targeted solutions” from Estee Lauder. Still, the product below proves they are capable of hitting a home run and offers what I hope is a sign of things to come!
Visibly Firm Lift Serum Active Copper ($18.99 for 1 ounce). It’s puzzling that this product was not included in the Neutrogena Advanced Solutions line because unlike most of those products, its formulation really is advanced! You probably already know this serum won’t firm or lift skin anywhere, but don’t let that overshadow the fact that this is an excellent water-based moisturizer for normal to slightly dry skin. It contains mostly water, slip agent, several silicones, emollient, glycerin, copper peptide, antioxidants, soothing agent, film-forming agent, and fragrance. It will make skin feel silky without looking greasy and works well under foundation to enhance skin’s appearance.
Nu Skin
The lowdown: Claiming that their products contain “all of the good, none of the bad” doesn’t explain dozens of questionable ingredients in their products, many that aren’t remotely close to being natural or without concerns. But Nu Skin has still created devotees worldwide utilizing a person-to-person marketing strategy to develop loyal customers, similar to Amway. They appear to be making some positive changes, including stable packaging and better formulations with some of their latest launches.
Tru Face Essence ($135.90 for 60 capsules). Despite some over-the-top claims, this product is an excellent way to create silky smooth skin while also providing a good dose of antioxidants, including green tea, vitamins A and E, and evening primrose oil. The buzz ingredient is ethoxyheptyl bicuclooctanona, also known as ethocyn. You may recall that this ingredient was the backbone of the Chantal Ethocyn skin-care line (of short-lived success, because their products obviously didn’t live up to a fraction of the company’s claims). Despite all manner of antiwrinkle claims for ethocyn, there never was and still isn’t substantiated evidence that ethocyn has any notable benefit for skin—though it does seem to be a good water-binding agent. Tru Face Essence is best for normal to very dry skin, and the capsule dosing system keeps the light- and air-sensitive ingredients stable prior to use.
Paula’s Choice
The lowdown: I am exceptionally proud of the new skin-care products I launched this past year, and also very excited about what’s in store for 2006. As I continue to fine-tune existing products and launch new, state-of-the-art options, I want to assure you that I will continue to adapt my line to respond to the latest, substantiated research concerning what is needed to take the absolute best care of your skin at every age.
Skin Recovery Toner ($12.95 for 6 ounces) is designed for normal to very dry skin and contains multiple essential ingredients to address the needs of these skin types, including exceptional plant oils, ingredients that mimic the structure of skin, potent antioxidants, and unique anti-irritants. It leaves skin feeling hydrated and silky smooth, and is suitable for someone with sensitive skin, including those with rosacea or eczema.
Skin Balancing Toner ($12.95 for 6 ounces) is an innovative toner for normal to oily or combination skin. This formula is excellent for stabilizing and reinforcing skin’s intercellular matrix (ingredients that mimic the structure of skin) while eliminating mild dryness and flaking. Skin Balancing Toner’s cell-communicating ingredients can, in theory, help keep normal to oily skin balanced so the oily areas do not get worse and it doesn’t contain irritants that lead to reddened or blemished skin. This is a personal favorite that is now a staple of my morning and evening skin-care routine.
2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel ($15.95 for 4 ounces) is a formulation that was created as a direct response to customers who love my 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel but asked for a stronger version. Like all of my BHA products, this formula is pH-correct, so the salicylic acid exfoliates skin and helps clear the pore’s pathway to the surface, dislodging stubborn blackheads and preventing blemishes. In addition, BHA has antibacterial properties, another advantage to reducing breakouts, and it also contains soothing anti-irritants. Both my 1% and 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gels have a nearly weightless texture and a soft, nearly imperceptible finish on skin.
pHisoderm
The lowdown: Found in most major drugstores, this small skin-care line’s products won’t knock your socks off. Still, pHisoderm remains a good option for cleansers and also happens to sell one of the gentlest topical scrubs around for those not yet ready to explore exfoliation via AHA or BHA products or who want something different than a washcloth (which is my personal favorite way to “scrub”—mechanically exfoliate—the face).
pH20 Anytime Nurturing Scrub with Gentle Microbeads ($5.95 for 5 ounces) is a creamy formula that not only is value-priced, but also has the ability to exfoliate skin while rinsing cleanly, making it a great choice for all but very oily skin. It is thankfully free of irritants such as peppermint and menthol, although it does contain fragrance.
Pond’s
The lowdown: Pond’s launched several new products last year, and most of them were truly disappointing. Owned by Unilever, the same company responsible for the Dove brand’s buzz-worthy skin-care products, Pond’s latest still includes a drying bar cleanser, toner with irritating alcohol, rather harsh detergent cleansing agents, menthol, and fragrant irritants such as coriander oil. They’re a good line to shop for eye makeup remover, cleansing cloths, and AHA products, but, other than the stellar product below, the rest of the line should avoided. When in doubt, look to the Dove line for a comparable product—chances are it won’t contain the problematic ingredients that keep Pond’s from being a stronger contender at the drugstore.
Radiance Restored Age-Defying Skin Brightening SPF 15 Moisturizer ($10.99 for 1.7 ounces) has a superior formula with several antioxidants in suitably protective packaging. This in-part zinc oxide sunscreen is outstanding for normal to dry skin. Its silicone, glycerin, and triglyceride base contains almost a dozen antioxidants and ingredients that mimic the structure of healthy skin. This product does contain mica, which imparts a subtle shimmer to skin.
Rodan + Fields
The lowdown: Physicians Katie Rodan and Kathy Fields are known to many from their appearances on infomercials for their successful ProActiv line. In 2004, Rodan + Fields became part of the Estee Lauder group, unquestionably a financial and marketing windfall for any cosmetics company. As a result, their product line expanded, their prices went up, and their packaging became far more sophisticated and upscale. This new namesake line involves therapeutic approaches for those suffering from a variety of skin conditions, and claims to work for anti-aging, skin discolorations, and anti-acne. Lots of consumers believe that dermatologist-developed products will be the answer for their skin-care woes, but do use caution. After reviewing dozens of so-called doctor-designed product lines, including this one, I can tell you there are no miracles to be found, and often there are some problematic products to steer clear of. Lastly, many of these lines are quite comparable to other product lines without the physician headliner credentials.
Reverse Step 2 Prepare: Skin Lightening Toner ($35 for 4.2 ounces) is an alcohol-free toner that contains 2% hydroquinone, an excellent, time-proven ingredient to lighten sun- or hormone-induced pigment discolorations. In addition, it comes in opaque packaging that keeps the ingredients stable, and contains the antioxidant vitamin C and beneficial plant extracts. Lemon and arnica extract have no place in a product like this (or any product, for that matter), but the amounts are negligible. The tiny amount of salicylic acid (less than 0.5%) will provide minimal exfoliation even though this product’s pH would allow it to do so. It remains an excellent option to address the skin lightening needs of those with normal to very oily skin.
Spa Sciences
The lowdown: This spa-influenced line, available at Target and on Drugstore.com, is big on gimmicky products and even bigger on unfounded claims. Still, there’s a silver lining to every cloud, and the moisturizer below represents that, not to mention a pattern this entire line should have followed.
Anti-Aging Moisture Day Lotion ($18.95 for 1.7 ounces) is inappropriate for daytime use because it does not include sunscreen, but is an option if paired with a foundation containing sunscreen. This formulation is impressive because it omits the fragrant oils common to other Spa Sciences products and includes more antioxidants. In addition, it has airless packaging that helps keep the antioxidants stable. It also contains greater amounts of water-binding agents and lacks the questionable ingredient acetyl hexapeptide-3. If you have normal to dry skin and prefer a fragrance-free moisturizer with a lightweight lotion texture, this is highly recommended.
Stridex
The lowdown: Stridex is a familiar name to anyone who has shopped drugstores for anti-acne products. Lamentably, most of their products continue the trend of combining active ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid with irritants like alcohol and menthol. I was pleasantly surprised to find the tide appears to be turning with the product below, and hope the line breaks tradition and starts giving acne sufferers what they really need to treat blemishes. Then again, I’ve been waiting to see more of that for years, and it’s more than a bit appalling that it hasn’t happened!
Benzoyl Peroxide Powder Pads ($6.49 for 28 pads) are a unique new option to disinfect blemish-prone skin. Featuring an effective concentration of 2.5% benzoyl peroxide and free of typical irritating ingredients found in lots of acne products such as alcohol, witch hazel, or peppermint, these larger-than-usual, nonabrasive pads are recommended for all skin types battling acne. These pads contain a mild detergent cleansing agent, so unless your skin is very oily or you have makeup to remove, they will gently cleanse skin while disinfecting, and they do not need to be rinsed.
Trish McEvoy
The lowdown: For putting together a customized makeup wardrobe, the McEvoy line and its collection of palettes and planners is almost without peer. The skin-care products were reformulated and although some improvements were made, there were proportionately more missteps. Perhaps the third time will be the charm for McEvoy’s skin care, but for now, this line remains one to shop primarily for makeup and, in particular, outstanding brushes.
Oil Control Paper ($13) features a roll of thin tissue paper (a great absorbent material) wound on a plastic spool and packaged in a Saran Wrap-style container. You flip open the top and pull out the amount of paper you need, then tear it off using the cap’s serrated edge. This is a clever alternative to packaging single-size sheets, and these papers (which do not contain powder or other additives) do their job, soaking up excess oil and leaving skin smooth and shine-free. The case is small enough to fit into most handbags, making on-the-go touch-ups a breeze.
If you don't see your favorite (new in 2005) skin product here, its because she doesn't recommend it for one reason or another. If you want to know what she says about your old product, let me know and I will look it up.
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